3 Ways To Improve Your Efficiency For All-Grain


I sometimes hear when people get into all-grain brewing that they are not getting close to their expected original gravity.  You know that you are doing the all-grain process correctly, you are hitting your temperature as well as going by the books, yet you still are coming up with a lower gravity.  I know it can get frustrating – but if you fall into this category, don’t get frustrated and in the words of Charlie Papazian, “Have a homebrew.”.

It use to happen to me when I first started getting into all-grain brewing and these were some small adjustments that I made that really made some huge changes in my results.   Anyone who brews all-grain can do these and they will help you out.

The 3 Ways To Improve Your Efficiency

90 min mash

If you are currently just doing a 60 min mash, stepping it up to 90 min mash might help out with getting a better conversion.  Just a quick change of 30 min you might start to see your gravity creep up closer to the expected gravity.  It just allows more time for you to get all the sugars converted.

3 Runnings instead of 2

Normally with all-grain brewing (specifically batch sparging) you end up taking your first running and then you’ll sparge once to get your second running.  If you are not getting close to your original gravity split your sparge water into half and make a third running.  By doing this sometimes you can rinse more sugars off of the grains.  I personally like this one a lot because it won’t take too much time to do it and the results are pretty immediate.

Use more grains

This is one where you might think it is just giving up, to me it’s understanding the limitations of your equipment or brewing knowledge.   While this really doesn’t help with your efficiency, it will however get you the numbers that you should be getting.  If you were going to go down this road, just add an additional 15%-20% of base malt and there you go.


Personally if you are constantly hitting low numbers for your original gravity, I would start off by doing all of the above.  See where you stand after that.  If you are still hitting low, then we got some issues.  Most likely you will be pretty close or even a bit high.  I would start eliminating them one by one and see where your results stand.

First eliminate the adding extra grains, because that one doesn’t really solve the root of the problem just solves the symptom.  Then I would see what happens when you go back to a 60 min mash not a 90 min because  lets face it, time is valuable.  You might end up just finding out that you need to do 3 runnings not just 2.   Hope it helps ya, and keep on brewing.


Related Post

What Is A Hydrometer

101 In Wine Making

11 Points To Consider For Brewing Log


Share Button

What “L” Means Next To Crystal Malt

It’s a pretty common thing when getting into brewing and to see crystal malts and get kinda confused.  Hopefully in this post I can clarify some things about it.


120L Crystal malt full


Crystal malts are found in a lot of beers, and when starting out is a great specialty grain to use because you can get two very dependable results by using it.  1) You will end up changing the color of the beer 2) You will make the beer a bit sweeter.  So to not make a beer boring you can use some crystal malt in your beer and now you’ve just added a different dimension to it.


The malt can be used by itself or it can be used in conjunction of different specialty grains.  At the end of it, though you’ll see all these different numbers next to the grain.  So what do these numbers mean?   The, “L” stands for Lovibond.  All that means is color.   Concerning crystal malt, the most popular ones are, 20L, 40L, 60L, 80L, 120L.  The lower the number the lighter the color impact as well as flavor.  The higher the number is the darker the beer and the sweeter the beer flavor it.  We have a post that goes into some pretty big detail about it all if this interest you.


For a rule of thumb with crystal malt no matter what type you are using, I would not use over a pound of it at a time.  Eventually if you keep adding more and more to a recipe, it will stick out like a sore thumb.   After a while using it for the purpose of only adjusting the color you might find that you get burnt out of the grain.  At that point I would start to learn how the different specialty change color and you’ll be able to make a wider variety of beer styles.



Related Post

How To Make IPA’s A Bit Different

Specialty Grains

How To Design Your Own Beer

Easy Lager Guide


Jays Brewing Logo


Share Button

Tip For Moving Your Carboy

Moving carboys around can be a stressful event.  You’ve worked so hard just to get the beer to this point and if something happens, the beer will be potentially ruined.  There is much debate on the internet on which is better, glass or plastic.   There are benefits to both for those that are on the fence, and we do have a post about the differences between the two. It doesn’t matter what type of carboy that you have though, it can be a pain just to move them.


Glass carboy’s are heavy to say at the least.  And when you add wort or wine to them, well it just got heavier.  I’ve heard of horror stories and personally had my own horror stories with glass carboys.  With the plastic carboy’s you still have the same problem with moving them.  While they do not break if you drop them, you can’t pick them up by the neck or it sucks in the water from the air lock.  That means moving plastic carboys turns into a juggling act that usually ends with some awkward hand positioning.


However, there is a universal method for moving carboy’s and I’ve been using this method for a while.  The answer is in two words, “Milk Crates”.   Genius right?  I can’t take credit for the idea, it was a friend that I saw doing it and thought it was brilliant.


milk crate


Milk crates cost $18 bucks for a set of three – the solution is a cheap one.  The way that you end up using the milk crate is, you set your glass or plastic carboy in the milk crate before you fill it up with beer or wine.  When you have to move it, you don’t have to worry about dropping it or about setting it down and breaking it because you use the handles of the milk crate.  It’s so easy I’m sure you’re wondering why you haven’t thought of this before.

Either way it’s a nice trick to use when ever you have to move your carboys around that will save you from a sliced up hand or spilled beer and wine on the ground.  Hope it helps!



Related Post

Glass Carboy Vs. Plastic Carboy

Maple Syrup Pale Ale

How To Make Yeast Starter

Canning Your Wort




Jays Brewing Logo

Share Button

Back Of The Envelope Beer Math

When you are coming up with a recipe on the spot, sometimes it’s best to know a few different formulas to build/check a recipe.  I use a few different back of the envelope beer formulas when I’m doing any type of recipe development.  These are a few that I use:


Calculating FG and Volume

OG x Initial Boil Volume = Total Gravity Points

Total Gravity Points/ Final Boil Volume = FG



boiling water


Calculating The Evaporation Rate

(starting volume – ending volume)/boil length = evaporation rate






Estimating Hop IBU

IBU = weight of hops in ounces x alpha acid % x utilization % volume of final batch in gallons x 1.34*

*constant to convert measurement into US standards


1 oz. of Northern Brewer (10% alpha acid) boiled for 60 minutes in a full-wort boil of moderate gravity wort for a five-gallon batch.

IBU = 1 x 10 x 30 / 5 x 1.34 = 44.77

Let’s say you are using last year’s recipe but the alpha acid of your hops has changed to 8% alpha acid. You will need to solve for the weight of hops with the new alpha acid percent. Rearrange the formula so that…

weight of hops in ounces =

IBUs desired x volume of final batch in gallons x 1.34* / alpha acid percent x utilization percent

*constant to convert measurement into US standards

oz. hops = 44.77 x 5 x 1.34 / 8 x 30 = 1.25 oz. hops


AAU Calculation

These are helpful for getting the same hops every time.






Calculating ABV

(OG-FG) x 131


These are really good for approximations.  If you want the exacts then I would use different brewing software for that.   Personally I like the back of the envelope math.  I use it for most of my recipes that I do.  I didn’t really start using beer programs before writing this blog up.  Either way, I hope these prove some use to you in the future when you are in a pinch and need some beer math to aid out.   Let me know if you have any formulas that you use.



Related Post

How To Make Starters

Maple Syrup Pale Ale Recipe

Summer Ale



Jays Brewing Logo

Share Button

8 Solutions For Lack Of Fermentation

So you made your beer, pitched your yeast and there is one problem – it’s not working. As of late, there has been quite a few people saying that there fermentation isn’t working and there are no signs of fermentation to be seen.  No reason to worry this can be easily fixed.  There could be a couple things that have gone wrong and that’s why you are seeing any fermentation.  So I have created a quick checklist on what to do if you see that your fermentation is stuck or did not start.


Check List

1) Wait 72 hours before freaking out…

A lot of people think that within just a few hours yeast should start percolating and that the air lock will be going nuts. That’s really not the case.  Depending on the OG of the beer, what type of yeast your pitched and the temperature of fermentation you’ll get different results.  I would wait up to 72 hours before making the assumption that something is wrong.  After 72 hours of nothingness, then it’s time to start trouble shooting.


72 hours



2) Is the lid down all the way?

If you are using a carboy it’s pretty easy to see if the bung is in all the way.  If you are using a plastic bucket with a lid, sometimes the lid isn’t closed all the way.  If it’s not, CO2 could be escaping from the crack in the lid making it look like no fermentation is taking place.  So press down around the lid to make sure you have an air tight fit.


Gas Might Be Escaping



3) Did you cool down the wort before you pitched the yeast?

Sometimes you can be in hurry and you didn’t pitch the yeast when the wort was cool enough.  This can kill the yeast.  If you pitched your yeast above 80 degrees there is a good chance that the yeast is dead.  It happens, a mistake that won’t be repeated I’m sure.  The fix is that you need to pitch more yeast at room temperature.


check the temp


4) How cold are you fermenting at?

Ales like it at room temperature.  Room temperature is anything from 65-75.  I would shoot for the middle of the road though, 70 degrees.  If you are lower than that, you can expect that the results might take a bit longer.  Also the start-up for fermentation will be slower and not aggressive.  So if you are in the low 60’s (64-60) just know it’s not going to take off like a freight train.  If you are fermenting a bit too cold, move it to a warmer part of the house, or put a heater next to it.  If you don’t have a heater, just wrap a blanket around it.


Cold As Ice


5) Check air lock water…

Sometimes with the 3 piece air locks, water can actually hold down the center part of it.  I would take off the air lock and then refill it and put it back on.  Maybe you’ll see the middle part rise up.

6) Was it working ever and what was the OG?

Sometimes yeast will start to work and then just stops.  This can be caused by yeast just falling out.  Take the fermenter and rock it back and forth.  If the yeast fell out, this will know the yeast back up and start fermenting again.  Quick and easy fix.  If you do that and nothing happens, it’s time to repitch yeast.  If you had a beer with an original gravity of 1.080 or higher and you didn’t make a starter, you might have to repitch yeast to get a good fermentation.




7) Is it your first lager?

Lagers don’t act like ales, you can’t judge progress by the air lock.   Lagers really are their own animal.  We have a guide on how to make them and what to expect.  If the answer to this question is, “Yes”, then it’s best to take a look at what to expect.

8) Check the gravity…

If the fermentation was going and then it stopped, this is an obvious one – check the gravity.  There is a chance that the beer is just done fermenting.  If you are fermenting a small beer with an OG of 1.035, don’t expect it to go on for weeks at a time. It’s going to boom and then bust because there just isn’t that much fermentation fuel to begin with.



Troubled fermentation can be frustrating.  I would go down the check list next time you have fermentation troubles and see if this solves it.   In the past we had a post about an emergency kit to have. One of the extra things that most homebrewers should always have on stock is just a few extra packets of generic dry yeast.  This solves most problems.


Let me know if you have any quick solutions for stuck fermentation. Cheers!


Related Post

Emergency Kit For Homebrewers

Guide On Lagers

Off Flavors And The Fixes

Yeast Profiles


Jays Brewing Logo


Share Button

Canning Your Wort For Starters – Brilliant

It was just last week a customer came in and had this brilliant idea.  He told me he was going to start canning his wort for starters.  You may be  thinking, “Wow, great idea…” with plenty of sarcasm, but think about it for a second.  By canning your wort for starters, you just made a huge shortcut for making a starter.  Pretty much once your yeast gets to room temp, you are ready to go!  No more hassle, no more wasted time.  The key to brewing for me is learning how to cut down the time it takes to make it without diminishing the final product.  This is one of those tricks that you can do that will give you that result.

Check the video below.  They tell you how to do it exactly right step by step.



Article To Read


Related Post

Making Starters

How To Freeze Yeast

Building Your Own Stir Plates

How To Design Your Own Recipe Step 1

How To Lager Beer

Conversion Chart



Jays Brewing Logo

Share Button

19 Steps For Yeast Starter

As of late I hear about yeast starters.  Seems as if everyone is doing one.  Truth be told, I do not make yeast starters.  I’ve done them so I can learn how to do them, but I just don’t make them for my beers.  Call it laziness, call it product of habit, but how I learned how to brew we just never did them.  If I felt in the past that there was a need to make a yeast starter, I would always just double pitch yeast.  Double pitching yeast is when you just take two packets of yeast and pitch those.

Now there are reasons to make yeast starters.  One of the obvious is for monetary purposes.  Let’s be honest, yeast is sometimes half of the cost for a recipe.  If you make an all-grain batch and it’s a cheap beer, yeast is going to be around $7.00 for liquid yeast; too bad the grains were only $15.00.  So if you’re making a 10 gallon batch because it’s a cheap beer, it’s unnecessary spending.


If you are making a beer that has a gravity over 1.080 then you might consider making a starter.  There are so many sugars that the yeast tends to lag out usually around the 1.030 SG mark.  So having more yeast will help chug along in the fermentation process.


Also if you are planning on doing lagers, making a yeast starter is sometimes helpful.  Since it is fermenting at colder temps, sometimes the yeast needs a bit more help to move along the fermentation process.

If you don’t have enough yeast, you tend to get off flavors sometimes.  This is caused from the yeast just being stressed out.  Stressed out yeast means weird tasting beer.

Like I said, I don’t make them.  If I feel that I do need to make a yeast starter then I’ll just double pitch.  But this post is not about what I do, this post is really for those that want to know how to make yeast starters.  So these are the easy instructions on how to make a proper yeast starter.


  1. Let yeast sit out at room temp until it reaches room temperature levels (you can do the same thing for dry as well). 
  2. Make starter wort
  3. Starter wort is .5 quart water and .5 cup of dme.
  4. This produces a wort that is about of 1.040
  5. Boil this mini wort for 10 min
  6. I add just a pellet or two of hops to the boil
  7. Add .25 of yeast nutrient
  8. Let mixture cool down to a little above room temp (should be around 75-80F)
  9. Sanitize the outside of the yeast package (you can do this with StarSan or something like it)
  10. 2 quart juice bottles work well for this next part
  11. Pour yeast into jar (see instruction #10)
  12. Cover the opening with plastic wrap
  13. Shake the starter to aerate it
  14. Now put an airlock on the opening of the container or drill a small hole for the lid and put a grommet in with an air lock.
  15. You should see foaming in about 24-48 hours and should start to see a yeast layer on the bottom of the container
  16. When the yeast has settled out it is ready to pitch.  However the starter is good for about 2-3 days.
  17. Sometimes it is recommended to add another pint or so of mini wort to it to build up the starter even more.
  18. Before you plan on pitching the yeast stick it int he refrigerator to flocculate all of the yeast.
  19. Pour off as much of the liquid as possible so only the yeast slurry remains – then pitch the yeast slurry

And that does it!  That is how you do a yeast starter.  When you look at the directions on how to make a yeast starter just know that you really do have to have some planning in order for it to work out well.  This is one of the obvious pit falls to yeast starters – you have to plan them out and you can’t make them the day of the brew.  Of course there are other ways to make starters and you can get into some pretty involved methods, this is just the one I do when I make yeast starters sometimes.  Leave your comments and questions below!


Related Post:

What Is Attenuation?

Build Your Own Stir Plate

Moonshine Thursday

Yeast Profiles

Off Flavors

Imperial Stout

How To Lager Beer

Jays Brewing Logo

Share Button

How To Use A Blow Off Effectively

This post is actually going to be pretty short it deals with blow off hoses.  So here go with a quick overview on blow off hoses.

What is a blow off hose?

Normally this is used for carboys.  Essentially it is a hose that you put onto the air lock or to replace the air lock.  No matter what, a hose is attached and then goes into a large container of water.  In essence you have created a very large air lock.  In the example listed below, they just attached the hose to a 3 piece air lock.

[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xX4D5ffT5sc&w=480&h=360]

Why is it used?

The shape of the carboy makes it so that during fermentation, the head will rise up and get funneled towards the top of the carboy.   If fermentation is strong enough, head from the beer will rise into the air lock.  Sometimes it can clog the bottom of the air lock so no gas can escape.  After enough pressure has built up it will blow the stopper and the air lock right out of the carboy making a huge mess.  This can be seen with some stouts, or wheats.


[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rd5RAp_jKSg&w=640&h=360]

Where people have gone wrong…

This mistake can not happen if you are attaching the hose to the air lock but rather putting in larger hose into the actual neck of the carboy.  What you want to make sure you avoid is, to stick the blow off tube to far into the carboy and beyond the neck.  What will happen is that when the beer rises it will create a suction and you will start to siphon out your beer into your water container.  So make sure that if you are putting a blow off into the neck of your carboy you are conscious about how far it is actually in there.  Otherwise you will lose a lot of beer.

Note for those that want to do a blow off…

Know that you don’t have to take your blow off tube off ever.  Just make sure it is submerged into a container of water and life will be good.  Some people switch it out but I never do.

If you have a glass carboy and want one that is going to fit into the neck of your carboy you need a a 1 inch diameter hose, if you want a hose to fit into the stopper hole or grommet you need a 5/16 hose, if want a blow off to fit over the middle part of a 3 piece air lock you need a 7/16th hose.  

Hope this helps.



Related Post

Easy Trick For Sanitizing Bottles

Blow Off Tubes

Glass Vs Plastic 

Jays Brewing Logo

Share Button

Bottle Bombs And What To Do

Sometimes when you homebrew you might find out that your bottles are over carbonated.  This can be troubling for those that are opening there bottles in front of friends and family only to get a beer exploding on them.  There are some ways to fix this though.  But before finding the solution you kinda have to know what the problem is.  There could be several different problems going on.

beer bottl

Beer Wasn’t Done Fermenting

This is a problem that people new to the hobby usually run into.  Your bottles will be over carbonated every time or sometimes bottles will break if you bottle your beer too early.  I say that this is a beginner problem because normally it is symptomatic of a brewer that didn’t have a good supply chain going on and had to bottle beer too early rushing fermentation.  Generally if you have a good supply chain of beer, you have less of a knee jerk reaction to bottle as fast as possible.


Room Is Too Warm For Bottles

Sometimes in the summer the rooms get to hot for the bottles.  On the flip side in the winter if the bottles are near a vent that is blowing heat on them, the bottles might get to warm.  If the bottles get to warm then they will most likely be overly carbonated.


Too Much Corn Sugar

“Was it 5 oz of sugar or 8 oz of sugar, I forget?” .  If you add to much sugar to the bottling process, you will have an over carbonated beer as well.  For those that are wondering, it’s 3/4 cup is a standard amount unless other wise specified. This is one of those simple mistakes that can easily be avoided in the future.


Bacterial Infection

This one is the worst.  You open up the bottle and it smells horrible or has a sour flavor as you lick the beer off your face.  Just flat-out sucks.  In the future better sanitary practices need to be put into place to prevent this one from happening.



Some of these are hard to fix.  I normally recommend though when your bottles are overly carbonated to make sure that they are in the fridge for a while.  If you already put them in the fridge, keep them in there longer.  Slowing down everything over time will help out.  “Help”, is the key word, most of the time it doesn’t solve the problem 100% but it will make it so they don’t explode most of the time.


If you open them up after they have been in the fridge and they still are exploding all over the place; there is another technique.  This only works with crown cap bottles though, so you are out of luck if you were using swing top bottles.  Take your bottle opener, and just pry the cap just a tip until you hear it go, “pssss”, then stop.  Once it stops, let it sit there for about 2-3 minutes.  Do it just a bit more until you hear it go, “psss”, again, and then stop.  Let it sit.  What you should see is that the beer head inside the glass will rise up slowly and after 2-3 minutes should settle back down to the starting point.  After you do that about 2 or 3 times, take your capper and recap the cap that is already on it.  You are just crimping it back down again is all.

What you have done is you have allowed some of the C02 to escape, so in essence you have regulated the CO2 pressure a bit.  Of course make sure that you recap it and put it in the fridge.   This will help with the carbonation.


If you think that your beer was not fully fermented when you put it in the bottles, it’s going to be harder to work with.  You can try the technique that is listed above but don’t expect a miracle, that’s all I can say.  Normally I count it as a success if your beer bottles don’t explode.  And lastly if you bottles are overly carbonated because an infection the best that you can do is, try to learn from it and use better sanitizing technique for the next time.  I use a shortcut when I bottle that really seems to help out a quite a bite.  There is a post about it on our blog as well, very easy and saves a bunch of time.

When your bottles are overly carbonated there are ways to save it, don’t lose hope.  The same goes for if your beer is under carbonated, we have a post on how to solve that with a quick and easy trick.

Let us know if you have any tricks that you use for helping out with beer carbonation levels!



Related Post:

6 Row Taste Profile

How To Clear Up Your Beer

Rubber Stopper Stuck In Carboy

Carbonating With Dme

Jays Brewing Logo

Share Button

10 Favorite Blog Post Of 2012

This year over at Jay’s Brewing blog we wrote quite a few different blog post.  Before the Mayan Calender comes to an end I want to put together the essential blog post for the year that I enjoyed writing and thought were pretty good.  So this is a reflection of 10 different blog post that I thought were pretty good and benefical to any homebrewer.  They are in no particular order. Rather these are just ones that come to mind which I thought were pretty good.  If you haven’t read these from our blog, I highly suggest that you do – lot’s of great information.



10) Extract to all-grain series.

This series is for those that are already brewing beer and want to make the switch over to all-grain.  It goes step by step on how to do it.  Great series.  One that really makes the process of switch painless and easy.  The series was started at the end of last year and finished in the beginning of this year.  That’s why it made the cut for this list.  Technically, the series got finished this year.  This is a series that does help clear up the confusion on what to do with all-grain and makes the transition so much easier.





9) How to design your own recipe series

One of my favorite ones that we wrote up.   It’s all about how to move away from kits and start designing your own recipes.  It goes with a step by step mentality, breaking down every aspect of a recipe.  By the end of this series you will be well on your way of understanding how to build your own recipe, and how different ingredients work together.  This is a great series for those that are ready and wanting to tap into their creative side.


question mark



8) How to lager beer

Many times as a homebrewer, we ask the question, “How do I lager a beer?”.  This post is the answer to that one.  It tells you step by step on the complicated process.  There is a temp that its’ suppose to stay at?  There is a schedule you are supposed to stick to?  This clarifies everything.  Generally the lager side of homebrewing remains something that homebrewers just glance over.  This goes into just enough detail so you can start lagering. By the end of this post you should feel pretty comfortable with the ways on how to lager.






7) Tip And Trick To Get A Rubber Stopper Out Of A Carboy

It’s happened to many home brewers and home wine makers, your rubber stopper falls through the neck of the carboy.  When it happens to you, you can feel desperation in your belly.  Well there is a way to get your stopper out of the carboy easily.  This has a quick video to demonstrate how to do it with a wine bottle.


Glass carboy.  The neck goes up wards making it so brew has less surface area to get oxidized.



6) 101 Alpha vs Beta Acids (Hops)

Sometimes I get asked, “What is the difference between alpha and beta acids for hops?”.  Well I can tell you, but I must warn you – beer nerd talk is about to get put into full throttle. When it comes to hops there are two types of enzymes that can be found: 1) Alpha Acids 2) Beta Acids.  Now most people are familiar with alpha acids but beta, not so much.  So here is the 101 on Alpha and Beta acid chemistry.




5)  Summer Wheat Beer – American Style

This post was a great recipe that was a major success for the summer time.  It’s really quite simple to make, doesn’t take a lot of time.  It is a very refreshing beer.   I had to throw in this recipe just because we had so many request for it at our shop.  It turns out great, but really is a summer time beer.





4)  The Best Summer Blonde Ale Recipe

This recipe is perfect for those that do not want a beer that is too hoppy, quick to make,  easy to drink, and a general crowd-pleaser . I’ve personally been  handing this recipe out to some customers this summer, and only have received positive feed back.  You know you have a good beer when people are telling you, “Ya and my wife even told me to make this one again!”.  It’s a good beer



summer time


3) 3 Ways To Improve Your Efficiency For All-Grain

I sometimes hear when people get into all-grain brewing that they are not getting close to their expected original gravity.  You know that you are doing the all-grain process correctly, you are hitting your temperature as well as going by the books, yet you still are coming up with a lower gravity.  I know it can get frustrating – but if you fall into this category, don’t get frustrated and in the words of Charlie Papazian, “Have a homebrew.”.

It use to happen to me when I first started getting into all-grain brewing and these were some small adjustments that I made that really made some huge changes in my results.   Anyone who brews all-grain can do these and they will help you out.





2)  How To Use 6-Row Malt For All-Grain

One of the base malts that is rarely used is, 6-Row brewers malt.  A lot of people blow off 6-row as a base malt and it is often overlooked.  While I personally don’t use it very much, I do find myself at times looking at 6-row as the only possible solution for what I am trying to achieve.  So this post is here to help bring better light to 6-row and how to use it in your beer. A lot of people ask,  ”What is the difference between 6-row malt and 2-row malt?”.  Most of the time, homebrewers will use 2-row for their base malt.  But, there are times when using 6-row is better served and 2-row just does not have the properties that are needed to accomplish certain flavors or conversions which 6-row can.




1) Under Carbonated Beer – Quick Fix

There is a ton of information out on the web about how to fix highly carbonated beer.  We’ll make sure to make post about that in the future, but there is far less information on the web about what to do if you beer in under carbonated.

It’s a pretty demoralizing thing when you open your beer only to find out it’s flat.  So this is the quick run through to make sure that you are at the right point to do, “The Solution”.




Hope that you have enjoyed these post and got a lot of them.  As always brew on.



Jays Brewing Logo

Share Button