19 Steps For Yeast Starter

As of late I hear about yeast starters.  Seems as if everyone is doing one.  Truth be told, I do not make yeast starters.  I’ve done them so I can learn how to do them, but I just don’t make them for my beers.  Call it laziness, call it product of habit, but how I learned how to brew we just never did them.  If I felt in the past that there was a need to make a yeast starter, I would always just double pitch yeast.  Double pitching yeast is when you just take two packets of yeast and pitch those.

Now there are reasons to make yeast starters.  One of the obvious is for monetary purposes.  Let’s be honest, yeast is sometimes half of the cost for a recipe.  If you make an all-grain batch and it’s a cheap beer, yeast is going to be around $7.00 for liquid yeast; too bad the grains were only $15.00.  So if you’re making a 10 gallon batch because it’s a cheap beer, it’s unnecessary spending.


If you are making a beer that has a gravity over 1.080 then you might consider making a starter.  There are so many sugars that the yeast tends to lag out usually around the 1.030 SG mark.  So having more yeast will help chug along in the fermentation process.


Also if you are planning on doing lagers, making a yeast starter is sometimes helpful.  Since it is fermenting at colder temps, sometimes the yeast needs a bit more help to move along the fermentation process.

If you don’t have enough yeast, you tend to get off flavors sometimes.  This is caused from the yeast just being stressed out.  Stressed out yeast means weird tasting beer.

Like I said, I don’t make them.  If I feel that I do need to make a yeast starter then I’ll just double pitch.  But this post is not about what I do, this post is really for those that want to know how to make yeast starters.  So these are the easy instructions on how to make a proper yeast starter.


  1. Let yeast sit out at room temp until it reaches room temperature levels (you can do the same thing for dry as well). 
  2. Make starter wort
  3. Starter wort is .5 quart water and .5 cup of dme.
  4. This produces a wort that is about of 1.040
  5. Boil this mini wort for 10 min
  6. I add just a pellet or two of hops to the boil
  7. Add .25 of yeast nutrient
  8. Let mixture cool down to a little above room temp (should be around 75-80F)
  9. Sanitize the outside of the yeast package (you can do this with StarSan or something like it)
  10. 2 quart juice bottles work well for this next part
  11. Pour yeast into jar (see instruction #10)
  12. Cover the opening with plastic wrap
  13. Shake the starter to aerate it
  14. Now put an airlock on the opening of the container or drill a small hole for the lid and put a grommet in with an air lock.
  15. You should see foaming in about 24-48 hours and should start to see a yeast layer on the bottom of the container
  16. When the yeast has settled out it is ready to pitch.  However the starter is good for about 2-3 days.
  17. Sometimes it is recommended to add another pint or so of mini wort to it to build up the starter even more.
  18. Before you plan on pitching the yeast stick it int he refrigerator to flocculate all of the yeast.
  19. Pour off as much of the liquid as possible so only the yeast slurry remains – then pitch the yeast slurry

And that does it!  That is how you do a yeast starter.  When you look at the directions on how to make a yeast starter just know that you really do have to have some planning in order for it to work out well.  This is one of the obvious pit falls to yeast starters – you have to plan them out and you can’t make them the day of the brew.  Of course there are other ways to make starters and you can get into some pretty involved methods, this is just the one I do when I make yeast starters sometimes.  Leave your comments and questions below!


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How To Design Your Own Beer Recipe – Step 6 – Yeast

The easiest way to change your beer around, is by changing your east.  Our blog has quite a few post on yeast in general, so to save your eyes consider this post as a directory to useful information.

When looking at your beer recipe one thing that you need to consider is if it is a lager or an ale.  Lagers are bottom fermenting so they like to ferment at cooler temps (around 55F) while ale’s are top fermenting and they ferment at higher temps (room temp).

If you wanted to brew a lager but you can only do ale’s because of your set up, I would recommend you do a little research on the yeast that might work for you. Normally it will come down to 029, 036 or 060.  These yeast strains are fairly clean leaving what I call, “A faux lager” taste.  They are more crisp.

The biggest thing with yeast is to choose a style of yeast that compliments the style of beer you are making, try to keep it to the region.  Usually there is not just one style of yeast that works for your beer but several, especially when it comes to liquid yeast.  We do have a yeast chart for white labs that has the descriptions of the yeast.

When looking at the yeast chart for white labs you will need to consider flocculation as well as attenuation .

If you really don’t want to get into liquid yeast or because you are ordering your yeast over the internet it may make more sense to have dry yeast.  Here are some dry yeast descriptions.

Yeast is super subjective on what you want to use but I think that the main points for it are just to be flexible and you can make one recipe and use 3 different yeast on it, and it will taste different every single time.

One way to save money per recipe is to culture your own yeast.  We do have a post on how to do it.   It’s the way that I was taught on how to do it.

That said it pretty much covers the main points for yeast.  The next part is the last part to our series on how to develop your own recipe.  We will put everything together and do a few examples of recipes.


Final Step


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Danstar Yeast Profiles

In the past I’ve been a huge advocate for liquid yeast over dry yeast.  I’ve been on this dry yeast kick with my brews though.

I wanted to put together a quick profile page for some danstar yeast.  Hopefully I can get around to some other types of dry yeast as well this week.  Everything that is here can be found on there webpage too.

While dry yeast may not be as specific as white labs or wyeast strands I’ve been turned on to them just because of the ease of them.  I do recommend all brewers to an emergency kit put together in case their brew goes to hell and usually an arrangement of dry yeast is a must in that kit.  Maybe in the future I can put up a post on how to build a, “Save Me” kit…

If you had nothing extra though, I would say extra yeast would be very good start.  Here is the list though:


  • Brewing Temp: 57F-70F degrees
  • Good tolerance to low temps
  • High alcohol tolerance
  • High attenuation
  • Quick fermentation (can be as little as 4 days)
  • Shows flocculation at completion
  • Slightly reduces the bitterness level of hops
  • Low estery levels and high attenuation


  • Authentic English style yeast
  • Full-bodied
  • Can complete fermentation in as little as 3 days
  • Non flocculant
  • Aroma is estery
  • Windsor yeast has found great acceptance in producing strong-tasting bitter beer, stout, weizen and hefe weizen.


  • Quick fermentation
  • Fermentation rate
  • Non flocculant
  • In classic open fermentation vessels, the yeast can be skimmed off the top
  • Banana notes

These are all danstar yeast profiles. Hope it helps when you make your choice in the future for yeast.


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