6 Different Mash Rest That Improve Your Beer

This post is really more of a benefit for those that are all-grain brewers.  If you are interested in learning how to all-grain brew, we do have a series on how to get into all-grain brewing.  It’s a pretty good one also, gives you step by step instructions.  If you have not gotten into all-grain brewing yet, this post is not meant to scare you – take it with a grain of salt.

Most think of mashing and enzymes as a switch that turns on and off at certain temperatures. Really this is not the case and shouldn’t be looked at that way.   Instead you should think of it more as a bell curve.  At certain points in the temperature the enzymes are most active. Most all-grain brewers have seen different rest for mash in specified in either forum post, or in magazines or even in recipes.  The objective of this post really is to break down the different rest and see how it can help improve your beer.  Brewing all-grain is really like driving stick, sometimes it’s nice because you have a lot of control.

Protein Rest

This occurs at 104 – 140 degrees.  It is most active at 122-131 degrees.  If you end up doing a quick protein rest for about 10-20 minutes at 131 degrees you will improve head retention and also reduce chill haze.   It doesn’t work as well with American and British Malts but it really does benefit to the German and Belgium malts.


b-amylase rest

This is a primary sugar-producing rest.  It generates maltose, which is very fermentable.  B-amylase is active at 131-150 degrees.  142-146 is the most optimal range though.  Longer rest times in the lower temp ranges will get you a highly fermentable wort.

cane sugar

a-amylase rest

This rest gives unfermentable sugars.  This gives more body and also will provide a higher finishing gravity beer.  This temp range normally works best at 154-162 degrees.

Steeping Grains

Ferluic Acid Rest

This rest is one that people who make wheat beers sometimes use.  It is short but its at 111-115 degrees.  It develops ferulic acid.  Doing this rest aids to the clove like flavors that are in wheat beers..


Acid Rest

An acid rest is used at 86 degrees to 136 degrees.  Doing a rest at this point creates phytase and lowers the mash pH.  Today many brewers will just add acidulated malt or different water treatments, this particular rest is really not needed.


B-glucanase rest

This rest is at 98-113 for 20 minutes.  You use this rest when you are using a lot of starches in the beer.  It helps break them down a bit and prevents them from getting to gummy.



If you are just getting into homebrewing or just getting into all-grain I would read this and take it with a grain of salt.  This post is really towards those that have been doing it for a while and want to fine tune their recipes.  A ll of these different rest are easier to do if you have a pot that is a mash tun rather than a cooler.  For a cooler what you have to do is add hot water and to elevate the temp and stir the mash to lower the temperature.  When using a pot, you just have to add some heat to the pot and there you go.

I hope this clarify’s a bit more on how to use to use these different rest in mashing and will also clear up some confusion about what temps you need to hit and what to expect out of it.


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Maple Syrup Wheat Beer Recipe

Wheat beers really aren’t that typical for the colder seasons.  If you are going to make a wheat beer in the winter it’s normally better to make one that is darker and full of flavor.  We do have a recipe on that.

The other way to do it is to make one that is bigger and has more, “Complex” flavors.  I’ve made this one in the past when I was on this maple syrup in everything kick.  I have to say, it’s pretty good.  It’s a big wheat with maple syrup.  It’s good for the colder months because it will warm you up and also the maple syrup adds this, “warm fuzzy feeling”, with every bottle that you open.  If you aren’t a wheat beer lover, then well most likely you aren’t going to like this one either, but if you use to like wheats and maybe just burned out of them, then give this one a shot.  As always, if you want to do it in all-grain check out the conversion chart, ratio is listed below.

In The Sugarbush


9.25 lbs Wheat DME (55% of wheat, 45% barley)

8 oz Maple Syrup

1.5 oz Willamette (60 min)

1/2 oz Willamette (15 min)

Prime With: .5 cup corn Sugar & 1/3 maple syrup in 2 cups of water

WLP 300


OG: 1.083

FG: 1.016

IBU: 21

SRM: 11

ABV: 8.5


  • Take 2.5 gallons of water and all malt extract as well as maple syrup
  • Bring to boil
  • In the beginning of the boil add 1.5 oz Willamette hops
  • Boil for 45 minutes
  • Add .5 oz of Willamette hops
  • Boil for 15 minutes
  • End boil
  • Let sit in Primary for 2 weeks, be ready for a blow off
  • Rack to Secondary let it sit for 3 weeks
  • Bottle with corn sugar and maple syrup
  • Let sit for 6 weeks in the bottles


Related Post:

American Wheat

Scottish 80 Schilling

Maple Syrup Amber

Creating Your Own Candi Sugar


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Dunkel Weissbier Recipe

Typically with hombrewing, homebrewers will go in and out of phases of what style of beer that they really enjoy to make.  In the beginning wheat beers are the style that most people lean on.  They are a great beer  but are not really typically viewed as winter beers.  The way to make a wheat beer more of a winter/fall style beer is to create a darker wheat.  This particular style is called a, “Dunkel Weiss”.  To make it darker, you need to add some grains to it such as crystal malt.

The result of doing this is a more filling wheat beer that is also darker in color.  Now with that said, I really don’t make too many Dunkel Wheats in the winter time even though it’s made for colder weather.  I typically make stouts, porters, browns, and reds in the winter time.  But if your taste buds regularly lead you back to having a good solid wheat, this is the beer that I would recommend.  For those that are interested in all grain check out the conversion chart.



9 oz 80L crystal malt

4 oz Vienna Malt

2 oz Honey Malt

5.75 lbs Wheat DME

1 oz Hallertau (60min)

WLP 300


OG: 1.051

FG: 1.010

IBU: 12

SRM: 13

ABV: 5.2%


  • Steep grains at 150 for 30 min.
  • Take grains out
  • Add in malt extract
  • Bring to boil
  • In beginning of boil add Hallertau hops
  • Boil for 60 min
  • End boil
  • Cool down, put in fermenter, fill to 5 gallons pitch yeast
  • Let it ferment for 7 days


Related Post:

Lemon Zest Beer

Skeeter Pee Recipe

Micro Brews And Football

Peach Mead Recipe


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The Reason Why You Should Use A Blow Off Tube

A lot of homebrewers look to get the edge on homebrewing with a few tricks that make life that much easier.  One is a blow off tube if you are fermenting in a carboy.  One thing I should state before I dive deep into the blow off tube is, it’s easier to get the tubing for a blow off tube if you are using a glass carboy verses a plastic carboy.   But with that said, if you can get a tube that will fit a plastic carboy then go for it.

For those who don’t know what the heck a blowoff system is, it is essentially a long wide tube attached to the fermenter that allows the foam from the fermenter to go out of the fermenter and into a bucket of water (or sanitizer – even better).  We normally have in stock  “blowoff tubing”, which is 1 inch inner diameter tubing that fits right into the neck of a glass carboy.  There are a couple of reasons to use a blowoff tube.

First, some people claim a better tasting beer. The theory is that bitter, astringent compounds go to the top of a fermentation and get expelled from the fermenter when using a 5 gallon carboy equipped with a blowoff tube.  I can say from my experience, I have not found that to be necessarily true but hey, I might not have the refined palate that some brewers have.

Another reason is convenience.  Some beers tend to foam up more than others. Wheat beers and stouts seem to be the main culprits and the fermentations can be so volcanic (especially in warm weather) that a 6.5 gallon carboy is not enough space to contain the foam. In fact, the 7.9 gallon plastic bucket can even be exceeded!  A blowoff tube in this case is used instead of an airlock in order to prevent the airlock from becoming clogged up.  Here we come up to personal preference. Since the quality of the beer is not at stake, the method used should simply be whatever works best for the individual brewer.

 Personally, I don’t use a blowoff tube.  I ferment in a bathtub and if the beer foams excessively, well it’s in the bath tub so it doesn’t matter too much to me.  But having a bathtub where I can do that is a luxury and I’m aware of that other people might not have.  If that’s the case then you probably want to think about a blow off tube.  Hope it helps.

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