Blackberry Melomel

This is a dense, and dark mead.  Since it is a bit complex, it will be one of those that is better with a bit of age.  It’s a really good mead to make when you have plenty of blackberries and are trying to figure out creative ways to use them.

Blackberry Melomel

Yield: 1 Gallon

3 lbs Blackberries

1 Cup Corn Sugar

1 Teaspoon Lemon Zest

Juice from 1 Lemon

2 lbs Honey

1/8 teaspoon grape tannin

1 teaspoon acid blend

1 teaspoon pectic enzyme

1 package Montrachet yeast

1 teaspoon yeast nutrient

Directions

  • Crush blackberries and put them in a 2 gallon container.
  • Add sugar, lemon juice, lemon zest
  • Boil sugar and honey in water for 10 to 20min
  • Pour over the berries, add grape tannin.
  • Let the mixture cool
  • Add acid, pectic enzyme
  • Add enough to make 1 gallon
  • Add yeast nutrient, and yeast
  • Let ferment for 3 month
  • Rack into another fermenter
  • In another 6 months rack again
  • Then bottle
  • Let bottles sit for 6 months before opening

 

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The Best Summer Blonde Ale Recipe

I know when it’s hot outside and you read these blogs, I will normally say, “And summer is in full swing!”, today though it’s a bit refreshing outside from the insane heat, so kinda hard for me to say that.  However, I am pretty prepared for hot days to come in the future and need a perfect beer to quench the thirst.  This is the one I’ll be making just for that.

This recipe is perfect for those that do not want a beer that is too hoppy, quick to make,  easy to drink, and a general crowd-pleaser . I’ve personally been  handing this recipe out to some customers this summer, and only have received positive feed back.  You know you have a good beer when people are telling you, “Ya and my wife even told me to make this one again!”.  It’s a good beer.

The one thing about this beer is, it doesn’t have any grains.  To me that’s a perk.  It makes it that much quicker to make it.  As always, if you are an all-grain brewer we do have a conversion chart to help you convert the DME into all-grain.

Summer Blonde Ale

3 lbs Amber DME

2 lbs Light DME

1 oz Hallertau Hops (60min)

.5 oz Cascade Hops (15min)

.5 oz Cascade Hops (1min)

Safale 04

OG: 1.042

FG: 1.009

SRM: 7

IBU: 24

ABV: 4.3%

Directions

  • Take 2.5 gallons of water put on stove
  • Add all your DME
  • Bring to boil
  • In the beginning of the boil add Hallertau hops
  • Boil for 45 min
  • Add .5 oz Cascade hops
  • Boil for 14 min
  • Add .5 oz Cascade hops
  • Boil for 1 min
  • End boil, put in fermenter, fill up to 5 gallons, pitch yeast

Primary Fermenter – 7 days

Bottle – 21 days

Conclusion

What I like about this beer is that is has a nice aroma, and a decent flavor.  It is really a great beer for those days where you find yourself sweating by just walking up to the mailbox to get your mail.  I hope that you will make and share with friends and family.

Side Note:  If you wanted to add grains to it to make it a bit more complex I would stay away from anything too sweet or to heavy in flavor.  My suggestions of somethings you could add to it would be :

Vienna – light in color a bit of a bready flavor

Carapils – no color change, just helps with head retention.  Doesn’t contribute to flavor changes either. 

Victory/Biscuit – Adds a bit of color, but will give a biscuit aroma or flavor.  It would make it a bit more filling of a beer.

Flaked Barley – Gives a bit of head retention and also helps with mouth-feel

 

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Dependable And Easy Blackberry Wine

Anyone who might find themselves with an abundance of blackberries this year and doesn’t want to see them go to waste, this is the wine recipe that you need!  I live in an area where wild blackberries are pretty easy to find, and they grow like wild fire too! This is a classic blackberry wine recipe that I have used for the past few years.  Every time it seems to make some great blackberry wine.  It is really simple and I have no problem finding blackberries once they get into season, so every year I seem to end up with a lot of blackberry wine. Hope you enjoy!

Blackberry Wine

Yield 1 Gallon

3.5 black berries

1 teaspoon pectic enzyme

1 package wine yeast (RC212 works best)

1 teaspoon yeast nutrient

2.25 lbs corn sugar

Directions

  1. Wash berries and crush them in a 2 gallon fermenter
  2. Pour 2 quarts of boiling water over the mixture and let is cool
  3. Add pectic enzyme, yeast, and yeast nutrient
  4. Ferment for 3 days
  5. Rack over to 1 gallon fermenter
  6. Dissolve corn sugar in 2 cups of water and add to fermenter
  7. Fill fermenter with water to make 1 gallon total
  8. Let it ferment for 2 months
  9. Rack
  10. After 2 months let bottle it
  11. Wait until 6 months to open first bottle.

 

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Formulas You Need To Know For ABV

Sometimes when making a recipe it’s a lot easier to work backwards.   Maybe you’ll think to yourself, “I would really like to make a beer that is 9% ABV”.  Well to know how to answer this question you can use a formula to figure out how much DME or LME to use.

To calculate ABV:

(ABV/0.84) = approximate number of pounds of DME to use in a recipe

(ABV/0.71)  = approximate number of pounds of LME to use in a recipe.

To show how this would work, lets say you want to make a 9.5% beer and you know you wanted to use dry malt extract.  The formula would look like this:

(9.5/0.84) =approximate number of pounds of DME to use in a recipe

(9.5/0.84) = 11.4 lbs of dry malt extract.

The other formula that might be helpful is if you think in OG instead of ABV.  When you are thinking in terms of original gravity the formula that you might want to use is this:

Using Extracts To Find Original Gravity:

(((Original Gravity – 1)(5))/0.044) = Approximate number of pounds of DME required to achieve correct original gravity

(((Original Gravity – 1)(5))/0.037) = Approximate number of pounds of  LME required to achieve correct original gravity

An example of how to use this formula is, if you wanted to have a gravity of 1.056 but you didn’t know how much malt extract add you would use the formula above

(((1.056-1)(5))/0.044) =

(((0.056)(5))/0.044) =

(.28/0.044) =

(.28/0.044) = 6.36 lbs of  dry malt extract to get a gravity of 1.056

Conclusion

This formula does not put into account the use of specialty grains.  So I would not hold an absolute value on the number that you get at the end rather, I would use these formula’s for ballpark figures.   If  you are an all-grain brewer, we do have a conversion chart to help you out with that as well, hope it helps.

Cheers,

Derek

 

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Sweet Plum Melomel

I wanted to throw out another plum recipe since so many people are having an insanely great harvest plums.  Apparently in this area, it’s been one hell of a harvest for plums.  Well if you are tired of making just plain wine with your plums, here is a Sweet Plum Melomel. This melomel is best served with Asian food.

Yield: 1 Gallon

4 lbs plums, halved and pitted

4 lbs honey

1 teaspoon acid blend

1 teaspoon pectic enzyme

1 package Montrachet yeast

1 teaspoon yeast nutrient

1/8 teaspoon grape tannin

Directions

  1. Put the plum halves into a fermenter.
  2. In a large pot, boil honey in the water (1 part honey 2 parts water)
  3. Pour the honey mixture over the fruit and let cool
  4. Add the acid, pectic enzyme, add enough water to make 1 gallon
  5. Add yeast nutrient and yeast
  6. Allow the mixture to ferment
  7. Rack after your vigorous fermentation stops.  Put in 1 gallon jug
  8. In 3 months rack again
  9. In 6 months rack again
  10. Then bottle and cork
  11. Age for at least 6 months before opening your first bottle

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The Ultimate Fruit Additions Guide For Mead

It is helpful to have some sort of guide when making any type of beer or wine.  When it comes to mead though, it is style that can be so abstract, and you have so much freedom, it’s nice to have some sort of guidelines to give a helping hand.

This information can be found probably the best mead book out there in my opinion, The Compleat Meadmaker by Ken Schram.

When adding fruit to a mead, it’s best to know how much to add of what fruit in order to get the flavor you intend in your mead.  There really isn’t a rule of thumb saying, “Add 3 lbs of every type of fruit to get a light flavor and 6 lbs of any fruit to get heavier flavor”.  Different fruit gives different amounts of flavor.  That is why this is so helpful.  All of these additions would take place in Secondary and all are for 5 gallons of mead.

Blueberries

Mild Fruit Character – 5 lbs in secondary

Medium Fruit Character – 7 lbs in secondary

Strong Fruit Character – 11 lbs or more in secondary

Cherries Sweet

Mild Fruit Character – 5 lbs in secondary

Medium Fruit Character – 7 lbs in secondary

Strong Fruit Character – 10 lbs or more in secondary

Citrus Fruits

Mild Fruit Character – 5 lbs in secondary

Medium Fruit Character – 7 lbs in secondary

Strong Fruit Character – 9 lbs or more in secondary

Melons 

Mild Fruit Character – 3 lbs to 5 lbs in secondary

Medium Fruit Character – 7 lbs in secondary

Strong Fruit Character – 9 lbs or more in secondary

Peaches 

Mild Fruit Character – 5 lbs to 7 lbs in secondary

Medium Fruit Character – 10 lbs in secondary

Strong Fruit Character – 13 lbs or more in secondary

 Pears

Mild Fruit Character – 5 lbs to 7 lbs in secondary

Medium Fruit Character – 9 lbs in secondary

Strong Fruit Character – 11 lbs or more in secondary

Plums (use skins as well) 

Mild Fruit Character – 4 lbs to 6 lbs in secondary

Medium Fruit Character – 8 lbs in secondary

Strong Fruit Character – 10 lbs or more in secondary

Raspberries

Mild Fruit Character – 2 lbs to 4 lbs in secondary

Medium Fruit Character – 6 lbs in secondary

Strong Fruit Character – 8 lbs or more in secondary

Strawberries  

Mild Fruit Character – 5 lbs to 7 lbs in secondary

Medium Fruit Character – 11 lbs in secondary

Strong Fruit Character – 13 lbs or more in secondary

A note should be that after your mead has hit the ABV of about 10% you can really add fruit with out much sanitation even though it is good practice to do so regardless.

 

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11 Points To Consider For Beer Logs

I’m always a bit surprised when homebrewers don’t keep records of what they brewed.  To me it vital part to the hobby.  Now to the extent of it, that’s always up for debate but there are a few things that I would try to write down when ever I make a beer.

(You Don’t Keep Records?!)

Sometimes you have a really good beer and you want to do a repeat, or you have a beer that didn’t turn out the way you wanted it too.  If you have no records of it, it’s really hard to make adjustments or to be able to change anything. The beer will forever be a mystery.  The list of what I put in my records is is below, we’ll break down each suggestion on the list to describe why it may be a worthy cause for you to include it:

  1. Date of when you made beer
  2. Name of beer (one of the best parts of this hobby)
  3. Volume of the batch
  4. List of ingredients as well as amount
  5. Time boiled
  6. Boil time for hops
  7. Temp of wort when pitched.
  8. Date of racking or bottling
  9. How much corn sugar was used if bottled or what psi for keg
  10. Comments or suggestions of fermentation, and how it acted during fermentation
  11. Overall impression

Date of when you made the beer

The reason why you want to do this is because of 2 reasons:

1) To help jog your memory about this beer.  If you have a big journal of beers that you’ve made, it is helpful to have a basic time frame of when you made it.  If it was years ago, your skill level might have changed as well, or you have might have been making a different style of beer all together.

2) Knowing when you made it will also give you an idea about fermentation temps.  In the winter your house may be a bit more cool, in the summer your house may a bit more hot.  Just  gives a bit of an insight.

Name of the beer

This is one of my favorite parts of the hobby, you get to name your beer.   I also name beers to help me remember the beer.  For me, the name of the beer gives a bit of a back story to the beer itself.  In some ways it’s a code to help me jog my memory in the future.

Volume of the batch

I make all different size batches:  2.5 gallon batches, 5 gallon batches, 10 gallon batches.  Those are the most common ones for me.  It may seem obvious to which is which when looking at the amount of recipes but you may see a recipe and just think it was a big or small beer, especially if some time has passed.

List of ingredients as well as amount

This is pretty crucial to being able to make a duplicate of a beer.  Your really need to know what you put in it, as well as how much.

Time boiled

I’ve done recipes where its a 120 min boil or sometimes down to a 30 min boil for one of my favorite Milds I make.  Being able to replicate the boil time will help ensure that you go through the same process again and again.

Boil time for hops

Knowing how much you have boiled your hops is pretty important.   You’ll be able to look at your recipe and see the: bittering, flavor, as well as aroma.  Having these points will help you out for sure.

Temp of wort when pitched

I don’t always write this out, it’s an assumption for me that when I do ale’s I will pitch pretty close to room temp.  I will write this down when there is an exception.  For some Belgium beers, I like to pitch a little bit warmer and for lagers, I like to pitch a little bit cooler.  So when there is a variation or something that I did that is different, I’ll make a note of it.

Date of racking or bottling

Did you do a secondary?  Or did you just let it sit in your primary for a month?  When did you bottle it?  These are all good questions that should be noted.

How much corn sugar was used if bottled or what psi for keg

For the corn sugar I almost always use 5 oz of corn sugar, so I won’t write that down.  But if I bottled with DME I will want to write that down.  For kegging did I force pressurize it? And if so how did I like it? Or did I use corn sugar for the keg?  These are notes that are worth while to keep and will have some value in the future.

Comments or suggestions of fermentation, and how it acted during fermentation

Knowing the fermentation properties will help me know if I should use a blow off or not.  Also if the beer took a while and I needed to second pitch yeast that should be a good note to make.

Overall impression

This is one that is completely subjective.  I like to write down, if it was worth making again, what did people think about it, if I could change anything what would it be, how fast it got drank, did it taste better after 4 weeks in the bottle or 8 weeks, was the carbonation level correct.  When I do this, it’s not to write a story but just a few bullet points so I know on this next one how to make it a bit better or what to be aware of.

(The beer sucked!!!!)

Where is the OG and FG?

I usually don’t write down the OG and FG for my beers, I know slap my wrist.  The reason I don’t is because I don’t particularly care.  If you are trouble shooting your beer, don’t get me wrong, it is one of the most helpful things, but for me I can usually look at a grain bill or an extract and come up with a pretty good guess on what the ABV is going to be.  Also once I start drinking it I will be able to tell after 2 or 3 beers what the ABV is if you get my drift.  It’s a symptom of the chillax brewer, figure why risk breaking a hydrometer when I’m going to drink the beer regardless.

Do I do pen or paper, or use a computer?

I go old school and use a pen and paper with a just a composition book.  I think it is preference at the end.  I like the feel of a journal and the sound of the paper clicking when turning the pages.  I also like the idea that at some point in time I will pass along my journal of recipes, just like I was given recipes.  With that said, make sure that if you use pen and paper you can write in a way that you can read it or someone else can read it or you might as well use a computer.

(Maybe lose the stickers in yours but always a nice touch)

Also there are free calculators for most brewing software.  I just use a composition of a few of them and then it will give me my numbers.  Again I know it’s preference but for me it seems to work.  If you end up using any of these calculators you will be able to get more information and ultimately will be a better tool for in the future.

I did want to give an example of how my beer journal entry would look.  Naturally you can do yours your own way, but for me this is plenty and gives me a ton of information by just looking at it:

July 1st 2017

Cascading Mountain Brew

5 gallon batch

60 min boil

6 lbs Light LME

1 lb Munich Malt

.5 lb Victory Malt

1 oz Cascade (60min)

.5 oz Cascade (30min)

.25 Cascade (5min)

WLP 001

Normal procedure, steep grains @ 150 for 30min, took out added malt extract. Boiled the hops at points listed above.

7/1/17 – made wort, cooled pitched yeast at room temp

7/15/17 – bottled beer using 1 cup and 1/4 dme.

8/15/17 – had my first bottle, tasted good but I’ll wait one more week should taste better

8/24/17 – taste much better, the carbination is spot on

Notes:  The fermentation was strong, but I didn’t need a blow off tube. I personally liked the carbonation level, I want to keep using DME for this beer.  It had small bubbles.  The hops didn’t have a lot of nose but the beer was a bit bready and kinda tasted like grapefruit.  Consider dry hopping or having an addition of hops for flame out next time you brew this, maybe use Citra for dry hop or another citrus like hop. People that didn’t like IPA’s didn’t like this beer, so it is a polarizing beer in that regard.  Best for hot summer days after you get done mowing the lawn.  Taste better in bottles after a month.  It’s worth a repeat in warmer weather.  Next time make it earlier in the summer around May or June so it’s  perfect for the first really hot days. 

Note #2: Took about 2 weeks to drink 

If I were to look over that in the future, I would get a pretty good impression about the beer pretty quickly.  I would have a good sense about a lot of aspects of the beer.  For my preference there would be no need to write down more, I am satisfied.  I know by looking at this beer it is going to be around 5%-6% some where in that ballpark.

Conclusion

I think that keeping notes for beer is pretty important.  I like to do mine with pen and paper because of the idea of passing it along sometime in the future or just the fact that it feels more, “old school”.  I believe that it is preference though for what you are trying to get out of it and that there isn’t a wrong way to do it or a right way to do – just what works for you.  Also if you plan on writing down your journal by hand, make sure to have it legible enough where you or the future recipient can read it with ease.  Feel free to form this habit with your wine, mead or even soda making as well!

Like always hope you enjoyed!

Easy Sack Mead

Mead in general is pretty easy to make.  Honey, water, yeast – and that’s just about it.  This recipe for mead is called a sack mead.  This mead is sweet, light and true to the mead heritage.  If you refer back to an earlier post you can find out about different types of meads that you can make.  This one is called a Sack mead – the flavor is really full of honey.

Yield: 1 Gallon

3 lbs orange – blossom honey

1 teaspoon acid blend

1 teaspoon pectic enzyme

1 package mead yeast

1 teaspoon yeast nutrient

1/4 teaspoon grape tannin

Instructions

  1. In a large pot, boil honey in water.  1 part honey to 2 parts water.
  2. Boil for 10 minutes, skim off any foam that forms.
  3. Let it cool and then transfer the honey to fermententer.
  4. Add acid blend, pectic enzyme, yeast nutrient, tannin and yeast to mixture.
  5. Let if ferment.
  6. In 3 months rack into another fermenter.
  7. Let sit for another 2 months, then bottle.
  8. Let it age for 6 months before you drink.

It’s a pretty easy drink to make and taste so good!

 

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What Are AAUs & How Do I Calculate Them?

Sometimes with beer recipes you’ll see next to the hops a number followed by AAU.  If you are new with the world of brewing it’s understandable that you might not have a clue what this means.  An example is below:

5 lbs Light DMe

6 AAUs Fuggle (60min)

10 AAUs Kent Goldings (15min)

Safale 04

What the AAU is referring to is the weight and the alpha acid of that particular hop.

How to get the AAU’s you use this formula:

AAU = Weight (oz) * % Alpha Acids (whole number)

Calculating AAUs for a recipe is a way to ensure that your beer will remain at the same level of hoppyness from batch to batch.  It’s a nice calculation to use because, hops acidity changes from year to year.  Also if you had to substitute hops ever this measurement  will allow you to get a more accurate approach on the bitterness of the hop.

Going back to the example,  if we know AAU and we then know alpha acid (4.2% for Fuggle) and we plug those numbers in it looks like this:

6AAU (Fuggle Hops) = oz * 4

We just need to change around the formula to better fill our needs which is to find out how many ounces we need for this particular recipe.  It would look like this:

oz = (AAU/Alpha Acid)  

Again we just put back the numbers into the formula and plug away:

oz = (6/4)

1.5 oz 

To check our math just put it back in the original formula.

AAU = oz * alpha acid

6 = 1.5 * 4

6=6

We would need 1.5 oz of fuggles at 4.2% to get the, “correct” level of bitterness out of the beer.

Conclusion

The reason why using AAUs for your recipe can be helpful is that even if the crops alpha acid changes from year to year, by using AAUs as your measurement rather than just ounces it will allow you to get a more consistent beer when making repeats.  Hope you enjoyed.

Cheers,

Easy Black Plum Wine – 13 Steps

Plum trees are blossoming right now.  Have too many?  Well that’s not a problem any more.  It’s time to take those extra pieces of fruit and make a delicious wine out of them.  This wine recipe is a dry plum wine.

Ingredients 

Yield: 1 Gallon

3 pounds black plums

2.5 pounds sugar

Juice of 2 oranges

1/4 teaspoon tannin

1 teaspoon pectic enzyme

1 package Lalvin RC 212

1 teaspoon yeast nutrient

1 teaspoon acid blend

Directions

  1. Cut the plums into halves removing the pits.
  2. Transfer the fruit to a plastic bucket and mash fruit as well as you can.
  3. In a small pot, add 1/2 gallon of water and sugar.  Bring to boil and mix together.
  4. Pour the mixture over the plums.
  5. Add all ingredients to bucket.
  6. Let the mixture ferment for 1 week.
  7. Rack the solids from the liquid, keeping the liquid.
  8. Rack into a glass container.
  9. Let mixture ferment for 1 month.
  10. Rack mixture let it sit for 2 months.
  11. Rack one more time, let it sit for  1 month.
  12. Bottle, cork and cellar.
  13. Wait 3 to 6 months before you open your first bottle.